We're pleased to be working with/sponsoring  Scouts Canada as they build their new 2700 sq.ft., 5 bay machine shop, complete with 1 tone hoist and paint booth. They're also adding a 2300 sq.ft. storage shed with a 900 sq.ft. mezzanine and change rooms, all attached to the new large swimming pool and patio.

Both buildings are being constructed completely out of ICF's and SIP panels with in-floor radiant, for maximum efficiency. The pool will be heated by photo-thermal panels placed on the south facing roof of the machine shop.

Scouts Canada is the country's leading youth organization. For more than 100 years, they have brought a world of adventure, outdoor experience and friendship to 17 million Canadian youth. Scouts have a lot of fun discovering new things and experiences they wouldn't have elsewhere. Along the way they develop into capable, confident and well-rounded individuals, better prepared for success in the world.

We had the pleasure of visiting this local project before the Holidays.

This amazing dovetail is the personal residence of Toshi from Big Rock Homes Ltd.  The time invested and attention to detail is nothing short of amazing. The intricate detailing, carvings and antiqued wood (it's new timber with a multi step process to make it looked reclaimed) is not for everyone, but illustrated Toshi's passion for the craft and showcases the astonishing level of his talents. Personally, I have never seen anything like it and was completely blown away.

Keep up the great work Toshi, we can't wait to see the final product!

View the plans here

We are please to announce that we are Georgie Award finalists for;

2011 Best Single Family Detached Home up to 2,000 Sq. Ft. over $350,000 - Reichman Residence
2011 Best Unique Feature - The Sweet Spot! Mixal Heights Ensuite Shower and Water Feature
 

View the Reichman pictures  here
View the Plan here
 

Best Unique feature details;

We just received these professional shots of a very unique Timber Frame home we designed in Sun Peaks. We started designing this vacation residence in 2008 and the clients took occupancy in September.

Some of the more notable features;

·        Curved timber beam

·        Dual prows to access multiple view points

·        Massive windows with minimal trim detailing and on an outward angle of 10 degrees.

·        Built in hot tub and water fall feature

·        Immense amount of stone works.

·        Glass catwalk which looks all the way through to the basement

·        Suspended, free floating timber staircases.

The plans for this design can be viewed here

Enjoy!

We started this project in '06 and it is finally complete (minus a few finishing touches). In '09 it was approx. 70% complete, but unfortunately was completely burnt down (arson). This is an impressive getaway 'cabin' on a beautiful lake. This is by far one of our most popular plans and has been the recipient of a few awards. We have modified it numerous times to suit other building sites and lifestyles.

Contact us for additional details

Even before people find themselves in the process of building a new house, they usually already have a preconceived idea of what they want their house to look like. After all, we all grew up having dream houses in our minds. We know what color we want to paint our homes, what material will be utilized, and even how many rooms the house will contain. This notion of our dream house may change over the years, as we grow older and as our priorities change. They also change when we see new architectural trends and developments.

When people decide to build a timber frame house, one of the biggest considerations is the timber frame design. Even if they already have preconceived ideas of what their dream house is supposed to look like, that idea will most likely have to be flexible, because timber frame design is very different from the designs of the houses that we normally see. Thus, homeowners are faced with a unique design dilemma. Should they allow a designer to get into the picture and help them, or will that just be an unnecessary cost? More than that, when should they get a designer? In what part of the house-building process should a designer be hired?

Designers or architects are very important in the house-building process. In fact, they actually play a key role in it. The homeowner might think that this is an unnecessary additional cost since he already has an idea of what he wants the house to look like anyway. But, designers are much more experienced in what works and what doesn’t. They are knowledgeable not only in the aesthetic aspects of the timber frame design, but more importantly in the technical aspects of it. Of course, the key here is collaboration. What a designer will essentially do is listen to your ideas and your vision, then try and make those ideas into a viable, cost-efficient floor plan. A lot of things have to be taken into consideration in designing a house, such as the unique characteristics of the site where the house will be built. Some designs might not work for all sites. For instance, if your land is sloping, a few technical adjustments have to be made. From the very beginning of the house-building process, sometimes even before you choose a contractor, it will be best if you’ve already chosen a qualified designer who has some experience in timber frame design.

Wherever you decide to get design help from, it’s clear that when it comes to timber frame design, getting the help of a designer early on will save you a lot of headache and heartache.

We have updated our picture gallery and added 5 new designs to our portfolio. Check them out below!

Gallery 1

Gallery 2

New plans:

Big Rock (2,344 sq.ft.)

Black Water (2,983 sq.ft.)

Davis Bay (3,958 sq.ft.)

The Alpine (7,558 sq.ft.)

Beach Ave (3,758 sq.ft.)

Building Life Cycle & Material selection (Part 3 of 3)

READ PART 1 HERE

READ PART 2 HERE

'Green’ materials to consider:

• Low Maintenance exterior finishes - composite decking, railings and siding. Trex, prairie fence, hardie board and teak to name a few.
• Low or Zero VOC paints and stains
• Reclaimed and/or refinished materials - int. doors, flooring, T&G for clg. & soffits. Powder coated rebar spindles for railings.
• Tile with recycled content... Slate is an obvious choice, but they are now producing porcelain, glass, and ceramic tiles with high recycled content. Make sure you look for post consumer not post industrial recycled content.
• Use FSC, CSI or CSA certified woods (Canadian Standards Association) (Sustainable Forestry Initiative)
• Wool carpet
• Natural stone (not cultured)
• Tile with recycled content
• Recycled glass products
• Green Roofs and walls
• Locally produced or harvested products – Keep in mind the transportation component of a product’s environmental profile may be quite small. Other inputs – such as the amount of energy needed to manufacture the product or pollution caused by manufacturing – typically have a far larger impact. If we emphasize the purchase of local materials, we are only looking at those small "transportation" effects and ignoring the bigger slices of the pie.
• Alternate roofing products (recycled polymers or HDPE or at the very least an asphalt shingle with a longer lifespan)
• Products composed of rapidly renewable resources - cork, bamboo, coco, wheat.
• Wool or Cotton Fiber Insulation
• Products composed of rapidly renewable resources
• Cement with high fly ash content
• High fly ash concrete - increased durability and hardness or PSI, but costs more and takes longer to cure.
• Natural wood products
• There are new products coming out all the time, for example, Certainteed has a new drywall ‘air renew’ which they claim will absorb and convert VOC’s into safe inert compounds for up to 75 years.
• But be careful and don’t buy into everything you here, there is a lot of green washing out there

Watching out for ‘Green’ Washing

1. Sin of Hidden trade-off – suggesting a product is green based on a narrow set of attributes without attention to other environmental issues.
   
   For example, FSC certified paper and flooring may not be preferable if the manufacturing and shipping process has a more significant impact, including energy, greenhouse gas emissions and water and air pollution.

2. Sin of no proof – claims that can not be substantiated by supporting material
   
   Common examples are products that claim various percentages of post consumer recycled content without providing any evidence.

3. Sin of vagueness - a claim that is so poorly defined or broad that its real meaning is likely misconstrued
   
   'All natural' is an example. Arsenic, uranium, mercury and formaldehyde are all naturally occurring and poisonous.

4. Sin of irrelevance – a claim that may be true but is unimportant or unhelpful for consumers.
   
   'CFC free' is an example of a frequent claim, despite the fact that CFC's are banned by law.

5. Sin of lesser of two evils – Claims that may be true within the product category, but risk distracting from the greater environmental impacts
   
   Fuel efficient sport utility vehicles are a great example.

6. Sin of Fibbing – making environmental claims that are simply false 

On July 27th, the clients officially took possesion of this home on lot #6 Mixal Heights Rd., located in Garden Bay on BC's  Sunshine Coast.

It was a very fun project that allowed much creative freedom. We started the Design in '08 so we're elated its final complete and wish the Russell family many years of enjoyment.  

We provided a full scope of services from initial site consultation to interior design; we helped select everything, from visiting the rock quarry to choose the stones and granite, down to the last cabinet knob and towel rack.

This home will be featured in the next issue of 'Zoom' magazine and 'Canadian Home Builders' magazine and we are working on additional  publications and awards.

Features include;

- passive solar orientation

- FSC certified hard Wood flooring

- Zero VOC int. paints and Low VOC sealants

- Energy Star appliances throughout

- Controlled lighting with dimmers and motion sensors

- Drought tolerant & indigenous plants

- 98% permeable site

- Dual flush toilets and low flow fixtures throughout

- Local & sustainably harvested, second growth Cedar logs and siding.

- Low E, Argon filled Energy Star windows

- Natural cross ventilation

- In floor/slab radiant heat

- sealed crawl space

- insulated foundation and slab

Enjoy!

The kitchen was custom made by local artist Angellos Glaros and the cabinets are composed of Babinga, Cherry and Maple with copper inlays and kick plates.

Angellos also made each metal knob by hand and incorporated basalt columns under/through the island to complement the Basalt bar top and fireplace stones.

Paul Hogan (Designer/Technician) recently visited the Davis Bay design on the Sunshine Coast. This project is proceeding quickly and the main house should be completed by August with the garage/coach house slated for completion shortly thereafter.

Building Life Cycle & Material selection (Part 2 of 3)

Read Part 1 here

The goal is to select the best material for a given application while meeting or exceeding product performance goals and minimizing costs. In today's market the costs of material plays a very significant role in their selection. The key is to look at quality, performance, maintenance requirements and life expectancy. Then weigh these factors with the cost, not just immediate cost, but long term and replacement costs.

Ask yourself

• How much energy will be required to get it into your hands?
• What is it made of?
• What is the expected life span?
• What are the maintenance requirements?
• How many emissions are created during production?
• What will happen to it when it is no longer usable?

This pie chart shows embodied energy consumption for a house from the manufacturing, construction and operation phases. In other words, it is the energy used to make the materials, get them to the site, build with them, and maintain or replace them over 60 years of house life. The house is a typical new 2,200 square foot home. Life cycle assessment takes all slices of the pie into consideration.

There are a few tools available to accurately assess lifecycles, most notably, BEES (building for Environmental and Economic sustainability) and the ATHENA impact estimator or Ecocalcualtor

On June 13, Streamline and the Environmental Youth Alliance, installed an edible living wall on the Vancouver East side (Princess Rooms, 215 Princess Ave). This 72 square foot wall contains Kale, Collards, Radish, Peas, Swiss Chard, 4 types of lettuce, sorrel, thyme, mint, oregano, rosemary, peppers, and tomatoes. This project will be maintained and harvested by the residence of this transitional housing unit and demonstrate an innovative way to get fresh, affordable produce in the middle of downtown.

Building Life Cycle & Material selection (Part 1 of 3)

Building Life Cycle refers to the view of a building over the course of its entire life. Taking into consideration the design, installation, commissioning, operation and decommissioning phases.

Life Cycle assessment or analysis is the valuation of a product to determine what the true environmental cost is from the growth and harvesting of raw materials to manufacture to distribution to eventual disposal or deconstruction by the end user. It also considers embodied energy and greenhouse gas emissions. It looks at, emissions, waste and other environmental effects at every step, from the initial extraction of raw resources through manufacturing, product use and eventual disposal or recycling. It is based on science, not assumptions. Life cycle assessment is the internationally recognized method for assessing environmental impact of a product or process and is backed by International Standards Organization (ISO)

Impacts to analyze at each phase;

• Fossil fuel depletion
• Energy consumption
• Waste
• Water use
• Green house gas emissions
• Stratospheric ozone depletion
• Ground level ozone (smog) creation
• Toxic releases to land and water

Variants on life cycle assessment:

Cradle-to-grave – assessment from manufacture ‘Cradle’ to use phase and eventual disposal ‘grave’ 

Cradle-to-cradle – a specific kind of cradle-to-grave assessment where the disposal step for the product is a recycling process. The recycling process creates new or identical products

This diagram illustrates the general concept of life cycle assessment, where all of the environmental inputs and outputs are measured at each stage of a product’s life,

Look for the second and third parts to this article in the coming months and contact us at anytime for additional details.

The Kalum River Estate, which is located feet from the river near Kitimat, B.C., recently celebrated their grand opening.

We began designing this project back in 2008 (August) and it is nice to see it near completion. As you can see, there are a few finishing touches yet to be completed (interior stain & trim details), but it is more than habitable and it's great to see people enjoying it!

We wish the owners and guests many years of successful fishing and outdoor fun. 

A homeowner will spend up to a year and a significant amount of money with the contractor they choose to build their home. We recommend considering the following questions as a guideline to understanding the service you will receive.

1. References:

Companies, like individuals usually refer you to people and projects they had good experiences with. It is important for you to know about all of their experiences. We suggest asking for the last 5 clients the contractor worked for this year. 

Question for referral calls:

a) Deficiencies:

How did the contractor handle deficiencies & repairs? Everybody is human and mistakes do happen, the homeowner should never pay to repair work that the builder has been paid to do once.

b) Budget – Reporting vs. Managing:

It is common practice to report costs after they occur, this does not assist the homeowner in controlling and forecasting expenses and cash flow requirements for the project. A budget should be built from several versions, starting with broad assumption and completing with an accurate document supported by real design decisions and as many fixed costs as possible. The contractor should deliver a working budget to govern the cost of the project with a 5% contingency for unknown costs. With accurate plans and design should come accurate budgeting.

c) Site Conditions:
Your project site should be cleaned and presentable daily, this creates a safe working environment and encourages an efficient job site. We recommend unscheduled jobsite inspections as a great tool to gauge the professionalism of any crew. A quick call to the supervisor just prior to arriving will ensure safety measures are taken and you can see the site in operation.

2. Costs, Rates & Fees:

What are the hourly rates per employee?
What management fee will be applied to the costs?
What are considered costs to the project and what are considered non-billable overhead cost of the contractor?
Is it possible to fix the fee at a flat rate?

3. Time and material tracking

How are employee hours tracking and audited?
How are invoices assigned to the project?
How is the project budgeted and updated?

4. Professionalism

Request letters of clearance from Worksafe (WCB), ensure all liabilities have been paid
Request a letter of reference from the contractor’s bank and ensure payables are made promptly.

5. Sub trades

Have the sub-trades been paid promptly, is there any outstanding liens on any projects? How many sub-trades are regularly engage with the builder and for how long? A good report with subs says volumes about their professionalism.

6. Employees

How many full time employees does the builder employ and how long have they worked for the company?

7. Tools and Equipment

Does the contractor own all of the required tools and equipment to perform the tasks of your project, if rental equipment is required why and at what expense?

8. Capacity

What is the capacity of the builder to assign the required team to focus on your project continuously? How many personnel are certified trades people.

This isn't a fool proof list, but it will definitely start you on the right path.

Growth rings (or "tree rings" or "annular rings") can be seen in a horizontal can be seen in a horizontal cross section cut through the trunk of a tree. Visible rings result from the change in growth speed through the seasons of the year, thus one ring usually marks the passage of one year in the life of the tree. The rings are more visible in temperate zones, where the seasons differ more markedly. The growth rings are responsible for the grain and knots visible in wood.

The inner portion of a growth ring is formed early in the growing season, when growth is comparatively rapid (hence the wood is less dense) and is known as "early wood" or "spring wood" or "late-spring wood". The outer portion is the "late wood" (and has sometimes been termed "summer wood", often being produced in the summer, though sometimes in the autumn) and is more dense. "Early wood" is used in preference to "spring wood", as the latter term may not correspond to that time of year in climates where early wood is formed in the early summer.

Adequate moisture and a long growing season results in a wide ring. A drought year may result in a very narrow ring. Trees from the same region will tend to develop the same patterns of width for a given period. For the entire period of a tree's life, a year-by-year record or ring pattern is formed that in some way reflects the climatic conditions in which the tree grew.

Outer Bark – The area of the tree trunk composed of dead cells. It insulates and protects inner tissues from disease infections and drying.

Inner Bark (phloem) – Phloem conducts usable food from the leaves to the cambium - to nourish it - or to storage areas in the wood.

Cambium layer - A thin-walled layer of cells beneath the inner bark of a tree, made of living cells that continually divide and account for the tree's growth. When this is left in tact and the bark is removed, it will dry to a shiny dark finish.

Sapwood - Comparatively new wood comprising living cells in the growing tree. All wood in a tree is first formed as sapwood. Its principal functions are to conduct water from the roots to the leaves and to store up and give back according to the season the food prepared in the leaves. The more leaves a tree bears and the more vigorous its growth, the larger the volume of sapwood required. Hence trees making rapid growth in the open have thicker sapwood for their size than trees of the same species growing in dense forests. As a tree increases in age and diameter an inner portion of the sapwood becomes inactive and finally ceases to function, as the cells die. This inert or dead portion is called heartwood.

Heartwood (Duramen) - The portion of the tree contained within the sapwood. The heartwood is dormant and unnecessary for the tree's continued life; the living part of the tree is contained in its outer parts. Usually darker in color, in some instances this distinction in color is very marked; in others, the contrast is slight. Heartwood is more resistant to decay than sapwood.

Pith - The soft tissue about which the first wood growth in a tree takes place; the central core.

Why Wood Warps

This tree cross-section shows the distortion of flat, square, and round wood as affected by the direction of the annual growth rings. The clear space surrounding each wood section is the shrinkage in drying from green to oven dry condition.

A section of a Yew branch showing 27 annual growth rings, pale sapwood and dark heartwood, and pith (centre dark spot). The dark radial lines are small knots.

Growth rings of unknow species

We recently received progress pictures of the Chelwood Cabin which is being constructed on Gabriola Island.

There is no magic number/formula to determine the cost of a home. Many will throw out per square foot numbers ranging from $150 - $300 per finished square foot. This is a very general number and is very unreliable as how much you’ll pay will depend on size, complexity of the design, quality of building materials, finishes and fixtures that you select. To get a better idea of these costs, consult with your local builder/general contractor.

Roofing: 

The design and the kind of roofing materials you choose will be a major factor in the bottom line of your budget. If you are working on a limited budget, stay away from designs which include hips and valleys, dormers and steep roof pitches as they will increase your costs. If you live in an area where snowfall is a common occurrence, an ice shield under the first several courses of shingles may be something to consider. Although there is additional cost associated with this method, the security it will bring you is well worth the investment.

Asphalt or Fiberglass Shingles:

This material is the most common, inexpensive option and will usually last 20 – 25+ years… some manufacturers even have a lifetime transferable warranty. If you are searching for something with a more detailed appearance, “architectural” shingles are now available to help you achieve that look.
Approximate Cost: $100 - $200 per square (100 sq.ft.)

Metal Roofing:

This material is becoming increasingly popular as it is considered easy to install and usually comes with a 25+ year warranty. Metal roofing is most commonly made of steel and covered with a very durable paint. A high end option for metal roofing is copper which can last upwards of 50 years.
Approximate Cost: $250 - $600 per square (100 sq.ft.)

Wood Shingles: 

Also known as shakes, flow nicely with a log home. They typically last about 20 years but if properly maintained can last up to 50 years. Keep in mind that wood shingles may not be permitted in areas prone to forest fires.
Approximate Cost: $150 - $250 per square (100 sq.ft.) 

Slate: 

Slate shingles have a look that is perfect for log homes, they are also very durable, lasting more than 50 years. The roofs framing may need to be reinforced in order to carry the additional weight of a slate roof, often 700 – 800 lbs. per square (100 sq.ft.)
Approximate Cost: $350 - $1,000+ per square (100 sq.ft.)

Flooring: 

Plywood or particleboard subfloor is commonly included in a log package. The finished floor is then installed over top of the subfloor. Keep in mind that trends come and go therefore, when selecting a type of flooring, it is important to select colors and materials that will remain timeless.

Carpet:

Carpet feels nice under the foot and creates a feel of warmth within the room. Another advantage of carpet is its ability to act as a sound barrier. If allergies are a concern for you or your family, stay away from wall-to-wall carpet as it harbors various allergens. It is also not recommended if you are planning for a radiant-floor heating system as it will hinder the effectiveness.
Approximate Cost: $2.50 - $4 per square foot

Hardwood: 

Nobody can argue the beauty of hardwood floors, especially in a log home. Hardwood floor can be prefinished or finished after installation. Regardless, it can be sanded and refinished several times over its lifetime. It does have a couple of negative aspects such as being prone to scratching and it can be slippery.
Approximate Cost: $6 - $20 per square foot

Tile:

Tile flooring is very durable. It can also be very beautiful. Your options can range anywhere from plain quarry tile to complex patterns and shapes. Tile is excellent for entry ways, bathrooms and kitchens but standing on a such a hard surface can be hard on a persons legs or back.
Approximate Cost: $5 - $20 per square foot

Linoleum/Vinyl:

This is one of the most common types of flooring and can probably be found somewhere in every home. Linoleum is relatively inexpensive, easy to clean and is available in many different colors and patterns.
Approximate Cost: $2.50 - $4 per square foot.   

Stone:

Stone floors fit in nicely with the natural look of a log home. Similarly to tile they are very durable but require special skills for installation.
Approximate Cost: $7.50 - $ 20 per square foot. 

Electrical & Plumbing:

Electrical and plumbing systems are two of the most essential components of any home. When it comes to these systems, every home is unique job. In order to ensure an accurate price, schedule consultations with the appropriate professionals but for budgeting purposes consider those quotes ballpark estimates.

Electrical:

Electrical work is made up of two components: wiring and fixtures. The wiring includes the load center, the actual wires, the switches and the receptacles. Wiring is generally straightforward and easy to put a price on. Fixtures (lights, ceiling fans, etc) are available in every price range so it can be difficult to assign a specific value to them. We recommend making a list of what fixtures you need and then heading down to your local home improvement or lighting store to see what is affordable to you.
Approximate Cost: Wiring: $3 - $9 per square foot of living space
Fixtures: Consult with a dealer or visit a local showroom

Plumbing:

Similarly to electrical work, plumbing is made up of two components: piping and fixtures. Basic piping includes everything from the tie-in to your water source to the point where the water comes exits the wall (or the floor) as well as the drain lines leading away from the fixtures. Piping is also quite easy to put a price on. Once again, fixtures (tubs, toilets, faucets, etc) vary greatly in price, so we recommend another visit to a home improvement or specialty store to price out your options.
Approximate Cost: Piping:  $4,500 - $6,000 for your typical 2-½-bathroom house
Fixtures: Consult with a dealer or visit a local showroom

Countertops:

Countertops are not usually included with the cost of cabinetry. While many cabinetry companies also deal in countertops, you are also able to contract with a shop that specializes in them. Nowadays there are so many great options for countertops that it can make for a difficult decision. This is where your budget can be a major factor in your final decision.

Wood:

Once again, a fitting choose for a log home, wood countertops are beautiful, durable and relatively easy to maintain (ensure that they are sealed carefully around sinks in order to protect them from standing water).
Approximate Cost: $25 - $100 per square foot, including installation  

Tile:

Tile countertops have their advantages, they are heat and stain resistant and they are available in many great design options. However they are not without the some disadvantages, one being the grout, which can be difficult to clean and does stain. Fancy tiles and trim pieces can also increase your costs significantly.
Approximate Cost: $15 and up per square foot, including installation

Solid-surface:

Solid-surface materials make excellent countertops. Scratches are considered easy to repair and sinks made from the same material can be included as an essential part of the unit. Generally, manufacturers require that fabricators and installers be specially trained.
Approximate Cost: $50 - $100 per square foot, including installation

Stone:

Stone countertops are very trendy right now. They are very durable, heat resistant and top of everything they look great. If not sealed properly they could stain.
Approximate Cost: $50 - $100 per square foot, including installation.

Plastic Laminate:

This old faithful is still the most popular choice. The fact that they offer a combination of value, performance and endless color options makes it hard to beat. New edge treatments are also available which adds to your design options but also to your budget as well.
Approximate Cost: $8 - $20 per square foot, including installation

Cabinetry:

Most log homes have at least some built-in cabinetry, most commonly in the kitchen and bathrooms. We are also seeing the addition of built-ins in other areas of the house, everything from bookcases to window seats. Such special touches don’t come cheap. To reduce your costs, choose a more common wood like oak or maple. You could also opt for painted cabinets that can be made from less expensive materials.  

Stock:

These are the cabinets that you buy off the shelf at your local home improvement store. They are your least expensive option, but there is little flexibility when it comes to design. If you’re looking to cut some costs we recommend using stock cabinets in the bathroom and use those savings towards upgraded cabinetry in the kitchen.
Approximate Cost: $50 - $350 per linear foot, includes both upper and lower cabinets

Semi-custom:

Over all, these cabinets offer the most value for your dollar. While the styles are a little more limited than custom cabinets, you will end up with cabinets that are designed to fit your space perfectly.
Approximate Cost: $150 - $600 per linear foot, includes both upper and lower cabinets

Custom:

Hands down, you will not find anything more unique than custom-built cabinets but… they don’t come cheap.
Approximate Cost: $300 and up per linear foot

Wall Coverings:

Most home owners try to incorporate as many full-log walls as possible but many opt for a few non-wood walls in an effort to save money and/or to provide contrast and color. In doing so it provides you with a few more décor options such as a smooth surface on which to hang artwork or to place furniture.

Drywall:

In terms of wall surface, dry wall is the most common. It goes up quickly and it is easy to paint. That being said, it is a rather fragile material and requires some skill and experience to make those seams disappear. If your home has very high ceiling that will increase your costs significantly.
Approximate Cost: $1 -$1.50 per square foot depending on finish level... A level 5 finish can cost as much as $2 per sq.ft.

Plaster:

Before drywall came along, plaster was the popular wall covering but that doesn’t mean that it is out of style. Plaster is more expensive than drywall but it adds a beautiful texture to the walls. There is a new one-coat system available now that is only about 25% more expensive than drywall.
Approximate Cost: $2 - $3.50 per square foot  
*Don’t forget to consider your exterior wall finish such as siding material, stucco and masonry work.

HVAC Systems:

It’s difficult to put an “average” price on HVAC systems as there are so many different variables involved including climate as well as window size and layout. The prices below are just rough estimates to assist you in planning your budget. Talk to a local supplier to get a better perspective of the system that will best suit your needs and the costs associated it.  

Forced-air: 

Forced-air systems are a good choice because they are usually the least expensive and they share the duct work for both heating and air-conditioning. The negative aspects of these systems is that they can provoke air-borne allergies and can be ineffective in rooms with vaulted ceilings if not designed properly.
Approximate Cost: $2.50 - $3.50 per square foot of living space  

Radiant Heating:

These systems offer a more even heat compared to forced-air systems but do not include air-conditioning. In-floor systems are incredibly comfortable but on the high side in terms of cost.
Approximate Cost: $3.50 - $6 per square foot of living space  

There are some other options available such as heat pumps, solar, electric baseboard, wood stove and fireplace with wood, gas or both.

Approximate Cost: Consult with a dealer or visit a local showroom

Windows:

This is another area in which the cost depends of the design of your home. As a rough estimate you can approximate that a typical home has a window area equal to about 15% to 20% of the floor area (this figure would increase by about 30% is you have large glass in the gable walls). The prices below are based on approx. 15% glass-to-floor ratio.  

Aluminum

This is usually the cheapest option. They are very durable but have low energy efficiency
Approximate Cost: $1.50 - $3 per square foot  

Vinyl

Vinyl units are a tad more expensive and have excellent durability, low maintenance, and fairly energy efficient
Approximate Cost: $2 - $3 per square foot  

Wood

Wood-trimmed windows are more visually appealing on the interior of your home but if left untreated on the exterior they can become vulnerable to insects and decay. Very energy efficient but can be high maintenance.
Approximate Cost: $3 – $4 per square foot  

Metal-clad wood

This is the most expensive option. Metal on the exterior reduces maintenance while preserving the appeal of wood on the interior. They are very durable but have less energy efficiency than wood.
Approximate Cost: $3.50-$5 per square foot  

Additional Costs to Consider:

• Land or lot cost including surveying and any inspection fees
• Insurance and taxes
• Building and soil engineers
• Percolation tests
• Building permits and all other fees
• Temporary services (i.e. electrical, water, toilets, etc)
• Concrete including footings and forms, gravel and sump box, weeping tile and damp-proofing
• Site development (i.e. driveway and sidewalks, well, septic, excavation, backfill and grading)
• Log Package including delivery, reassembly and a crane if necessary
• Log finish (i.e. wood preservatives, staining and fungicide)
• Soffit and fascia material including gutters and downspouts
• Insulation for all walls and ceilings as well as the roof

We have added 8 new log and timber frame designs to our portfolio. Check them out below!

Full Scribe:

Jollymoore

Timber Frame:

Burfield

Gleneagles

Coastal Black

Post & Beam:

The Sunset

Gabriola

Commercial:

FYI design studio

Gazebo

Wood plays a critical role in building environmentally friendly and sustainable structures. Those who use it know that wood is an ideal green building material. The use of wood alone does not make a building green, but, when used effectively as part of intelligent building design, wood adds significantly to the sustainability of that building.

All wood in buildings sequesters CO2 for the life of the building (and beyond, if it is recycled or reclaimed). If these buildings use other materials like steel and concrete, they would emit CO2 into the atmosphere. Not to say these materials are bad, most buildings must contain steel and concrete in the foundations, but the key is to integrate wood into building designs where possible, when it makes sense to do so.

On average, a structure made entirely of steel and concrete releases 24 per cent and 47 per cent more air pollution, respectively. They produce 8 per cent and 23 per cent more solid waste; use 11 per cent and 81 per cent more resources; require 26 per cent and 57 per cent more energy; emit 34 and 81 per cent more greenhouse gases; and generate 4 and 3.5 times more water pollution.

Often people think of wood as a guy with a chainsaw going out in the woods and killing trees. There may not be the same perception about concrete, coal, copper or steel, but all of these materials have a significant impact on the land and land use change. Many of those impacts are permanent, whereas forestry has only a temporary impact. Many forests are sustainably harvested and re-planted; we may not be around long enough to see that 100 year old forest grow to that age again, but it will.

Not all energy is not created equal... Both the amount and type of energy used in production and manufacturing is quite different. For example, in wood the sawdust, chips and waste products from the manufacturing process are used to heat the drying kilns. Steel requires extreme heat and chemical cleaners and it also releases carbon that has been locked up for millions of years, releasing mass quantities of CO2. Even if you end up burning wood, you're just putting back the CO2 that was recently in the atmosphere, not adding more that had been locked away long term in oil and gas deposits.

In North America the average house lasts 38 years. The vast majority are torn down not because of the building material used or because they are decrepit, but because they no longer meet the needs of the owner.  A well designed, constructed and protected wood structure/home can last hundreds of years. Wood construction is also highly adaptable in building design. It can be re-arranged, removed/reclaimed and re-introduced in to new construction more easily than other materials. Therefore an increased use of wood could possibly result in increased service lives and less resources wasted. Not to mention wood is one of the most ancient, tried-and-true materials of them all.

Just putting in some wood doesn't make a building green. No matter how many green materials you put into a building, if it isn't appropriate and it doesn't perform its function properly, it will be self defeating.

We design log and timber frame structures that are meant to last 100 plus years, looking at the whole system and the buildings intended function. With an enhanced building system and some innovative design techniques, we can ensure your home design is eternal, withstanding the test of time.

Contact us for additional details.

During my latest trip to Sun Peaks, I was able to take pictures of our recently completed project, the Bella Vista. Only the exterior railing and finished landscaping remain.

In addition to their elegance and definitive look, full scribe (stacked) log walls can provide great thermal mass value and fire rating. However due to the natural properties of wood (slow evaporation of moisture from the wood cells), they are subject to a predictable amount of shrinkage in diameter or "settling" over time as each log in the wall slowly dries out and compresses from the weight above. Logs will not shrink much end-to-end, only in diameter. Typically log builders allow for 6% total shrinkage, or 3/4" per foot of total wall height. This can vary slightly in different moisture index areas or with different species of wood, but can always easily add up to several inches of total shrinkage in a full-scribe log wall.

For example, a full-scribe log wall that is 9' high may settle up to 4 to 6 inches over a period of several years, while vertical posts, conventionally framed walls, kitchen cabinets, or anything else structurally tied to the scribed walls will not want to shrink at all. If settling allowances are not properly planned for, resistances to the shrinkage can compromise the integrity of the home and lead to devastating consequences. Those who want the look of natural logs in their home without any settling should consider post and beam or timber frame construction instead, or one of the many hybrids such as fusion style, log décor, or even piece en piece.

No allowance for settling at the top of the post prohibits the top log from  settling with the rest of the wall.

This is nothing to worry about, however, as all settling issues can easily be avoided by properly designing and communicating settling details to the log builder and contractor. Details should be looked at on a project-by-project basis, and can range from strategic placement of structural settling jacks on vertical posts, to specifying aesthetically pleasing decorative trim around frame walls, windows, and doors to cover up necessary settling spaces:

Typical settling detail for an interior post or wall underneath a log beam.

Cut-away view of a typical window settling detail.

Once all applicable details are in place and properly constructed, all that's left is minor maintenance and settling jack adjustments every few months to ensure the home is settling evenly throughout. Many log builders will be able to offer a maintenance plan to keep the home level until the log walls reach their equilibrium moisture content (EMC), which will vary based on the climate in which the home is built. This maintenance is necessary to maintain the value of the home as well as give log home owners peace of mind.

If you would like any more information on log settling or the details we provide, please don't hesitate to contact us!

On Monday, Jan.19th, we performed one of our regular site visits to our Mixal Heights project, located in Garden Bay on BC's  Sunshine Coast. Together with the client, we visit the site continually to meet with the contractor and all sub-trades, to review all the work in progress and ensure everyone is on the same page moving forward. This is crutial to ensure the complete sucess of this complicated, very custom project.  

The clients reside in Los Angeles and are currently building two homes, Lot #5 and Lot #6. Their intentions are to keep lot #6 for their vacation/future retirement home and sell Lot #5 as a spec house.

We are providing a full scope of works for both these projects, including; custom design, engineering, interior design, project management, material takeoffs, product specification and even material purchasing. 

click here to view lot #5

click here to view lot #6

We recently received updated photos of our Pagosa Springs, CO. project. The clients have received their 'Certificate of Occupancy' from the county and plan to be moved in by the end of the month.

A few words from the clients;

The house is simply fantastic!

There are tons of sad stories out there about building long distance; fortunately ours is a totally different story.

A few adjectives and phrases that have been tossed out by various subs and visitors to the project: “one of the top 2 or 3 homes I’ve ever worked on”, “I’ve worked on lots of homes that have a fairly grand appearance from the outside, but are nothing but large empty 'characterless’ space inside; this house has it all, a grand outside and an even grander inside”, “sweet”, “a real stunner”, “very cool house”, “fabulous”, etc., Enough before I show my conceit!

Anyway Kevin, thanks again for a wonderful rework of the original plan and all your ideas that were added. It really has turned out better than we ever conceptualized. We absolutely couldn’t be happier with the outcome.

 

I would like to thank Jean and Howard for sharing their experience with us. They have been exceptional clients and an absolute pleasure to work with. I hope they enjoy many years of happiness in their new home.

We recognize that building a custom home can be an overwhelming task, but our goal is to make it as easy and informative as possible. In doing so, we have prepared a glossary of common building terms that will assist you with some of the terminology you will encounter. If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to contact us at any time.

A Glossary of Building terms

A

Adhesive - High-performance glue used to adhere wood or other building components. May be used as a sealant in log homes.

We have added 15 new interior pictures to our photo gallery Click to view

Logs boast a natural characteristic called “thermal mass”.  This means that logs have the ability to absorb heat, keeping the house cool in the summer and conversely, storing that same heat in the winter and gradually releasing it at night, warming the house. This wonderful effect reduces overall energy needs and costs by as much as 30% over a conventional home, according to studies by the National Bureau of Standards.

It is important to understand that the “R” value (A measure of resistance to the flow of heat) is not the only method to quantify insulating qualities. The fiberglass insulation industry and the Federal Government established “R” ratings in an attempt to set standards for energy efficiency. The “R” value of fiberglass insulation is determined by passing heat through the material when dry. There is no consideration given to radiation, solar input, storage capabilities or moisture. A log is a solid mass that absorbs and stores energy in its cellular structure and is able to release the stored energy back into the home maintaining a stable comfort level. Studies have found that the majority of heat loss is due to air leakage around doors, windows and outlets, just as in conventionally framed homes. The log home industry has made major strides in improving joinery and sealants which has substantially reduced air-infiltration rates.

Aside from energy efficiency, thermal mass also provides a quieter environment than a conventional frame home, thanks to the sound-deadening effects of wood, according to the Log Homes Council of the National Association of Home Builders. “The acoustical benefits of a log wall, therefore, are the reduced transmission provided by its solid mass and the sound deflection provided by the profile of the log (the angle, shape, and texture of the log surface).”

Species                                       R-Value/Inch 

NEWS RELEASE

For Immediate Release

November 7, 2010

Special to Abbotsford, Valley Media:

Abbotsford Technologist Kevin Simoes Wins ASTTBC  Professional Achievement Award

          Applied Science Technologist Kevin Simoes, Principal of Streamline Design in Abbotsford, has been recognized by his 9,500 member professional association with its Professional Achievement Award in a Vancouver ceremony November 6^th.

          “Our Professional Achievement Awards are presented to ASTTBC members who’ve distinguished themselves in their particular field of technology, usually through having made a substantial contribution to his or her community,” explains the Executive Director of ASTTBC, John Leech. “We look for outstanding performance in technical or business achievement, career development, and community service.”

After completing general studies at UCFV in 1999, Kevin joined RCM CAD design as a junior technician, becoming a partner and senior designer in the small firm by 2003. Kevin started his own firm, Streamline Design Ltd., in 2004 and in 2008, he launched Streamline Enterprises Ltd. which has since become the Canadian distributor for GRO2 - green roofs and living wall systems. 

Working with heavy log and  timber, Streamline has completed projects in Canada, the USA and internationally. “Kevin and his team have designed and built log homes in Canada, the U.S., and from Bosnia to the Bahamas – literally! - even in Denmark, Greece, Australia and Russia,” John Leech comments. 

The ASTTBC Executive Director concluded, “Kevin is a Registered Building Designer and LEED-accredited professional who credits much of his expertise to the log and timber craftsmen he’s worked with through the years. Kevin has contributed to log building standards and presented at the International Log Builders Association. He has received several design awards through international publications. He was named the local Chamber’s ‘Young Entrepreneur of the Year’ in 2008, and remains active with the Abbotsford Downtown Business Association, the Sustainable Business Committee and volunteers with the Environmental Youth Alliance.”

Informed of his award, Kevin responded, “I was surprised and elated to have been chosen to receive the ASTTBC Professional Achievement Award.  I'm truly honored. It's extremely rewarding to be recognized by my peers.  I would like to thank ASTTBC for their continued efforts to improve and regulate our industry.”

EDITORS: For further story development, contact –

Kevin Simoes, AS, RBD – (604) 854-2966

John Leech, Executive Director, ASTTBC - (604) 230.5827

The term “building green” has become a buzz word in the residential construction industry. Developers, contractors, and manufacturers are selling it and home owners are beginning to expect green alternatives. But just what is building green?

Amongst the various programs established to help home buyers design or purchase green homes, a certification program called LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) has emerged in the last few years. Under this, log home builders have a role to play in helping their clients certify their homes.

LEED for Homes is a national third-party certification system measuring the green performance of a home in 8 different categories including: innovation and design, location and linkages, sustainable sites, water efficiency, energy and atmosphere, materials and resources, indoor environmental control, and education and awareness.

Home owners can build or purchase homes that meet 4 different standards: Certified (45-59 points), Silver (60-74 points), Gold (75-89 points), Platinum (90-136 points). The Certified standard is the easiest and the Platinum is the most difficult to obtain..

It is important for log home builders to align themselves with team members with accreditation in the program. Designers and general contractors tend to take the leadership role in helping homeowners decide which points they want to obtain under the system. Some of the issues log home builders will need to track during the design phase may include the following: 

Innovation and Design. A log home builder’s participation is not limited to the log work. It’s important to participate in design think sessions and contribute alternative ideas. For example, you can add up to 17 points to a LEED project by constructing a green roof for your client.

Material Selection. In some homes, clients will push for many LEED points with good material selection. As a log builder, you may be asked to procure Forest Stewardship Council (FSC)-certified wood and document the percentage of recycled content in all building materials you use. Requested or not, make sure to buy your stains, adhesives and sealants from suppliers whose products have low VOCs (volatile organic compounds) content.

Heating, Cooling and Energy Demand. The LEED for Homes program promotes the use of a variety of energy sources such as geothermal, heat pumps, solar panels, wind turbines, and water turbines; efficiencies such as Energy Star appliances and furnaces, timers and electronic controls, and on-demand hot water tanks; architectural and engineering features such as vegetation for shade and windbreaks, living walls and roofs, day lighting, extra insulation, and passive solar gain.

A log home builder should think about how any venting or mechanical systems related to green technologies influence their log work. Also, consult the structural engineer early on to see if larger diameter ridge poles and purlins are needed to support the additional dead load of roof mechanical systems, solar panels or green roofs. In the interest of further energy conservation, and as a log home builder, you may also recommend larger logs for greater R-values in the walls, along with sheep’s wool and log-specific gasketing in the laterals. 

Dennis Anderson of Anderson Custom Homes in Evergreen, Colorado, encourages his clients to find the right mix of energy sources and conservation techniques which meet their budget and the site’s characteristics. Dennis says that “it’s important to first find the low hanging fruit”. The latest renewable energy technology may not be best for the site. For example, solar panels are well-suited for housing on South facing slopes, but not necessarily those facing south. It’s best to look first at using trees for shade, as well as facing the house to take advantage of passive solar energy, and utilizing walk out basements for creating natural cooling.

Indoor Air Quality. The intent here is to improve the overall quality of a home’s indoor environment by reducing the creation of, and exposure to, pollutants. You can do this by prohibiting urea-formaldehyde resins and protecting all materials from moisture.

Sustainable Sites. Under the LEED for Homes system the contractor must limit disturbances to the site to avoid long-term environmental damage. So before the log work arrives, make a plan with the contractor or client. While on site, limit your work area to a maximum of 40’ from building face and 5’ from roadways. When you leave a building site, be sure to clean up and remediate all your materials and equipment.

Waste Management. Another goal of the LEED for Homes program is to divert construction waste from landfills. You may be asked to document costs and to separate and dispose of construction waste and build with reused or salvaged materials. To minimize societal waste overall, source salvaged and refurbished products, tools and machinery. You will need to establish a strategy, enforcement program, sorting area, identify qualified handlers and haulers and collect monthly way slips for what you dispose.

In addition to supporting the overall LEED certification, log home builders can directly contribute points through their own efforts. Some of these may include:

•  Obtain a FSC chain-of-custody (CoC) certification (2 points). 
•  Certify yourself as a LEED Accredited Professional (1 point).
• Be apart of the integrated project team by being involved in the various project phases (1 point).
• Help the project team ensure the building is oriented for solar design (1 point).
• Provide the project team with a durability plan for your logs and timbers. This should include an inspection list, address moisture control issues and contain strategies for maintenance, such as re-staining, recommending an approved, low VOC stain (contributes to 2 points).
• Discuss with the project team strategies for innovative or regional design. This may include increased roof overhangs for greater log protection. (Each approved ruling for innovation is worth 1 point with up to 4 points available.)
• Minimize disturbance area of the building site. This may include a strategy for re-erection of the log or timber package to minimize the crew’s and crane’s disruption to the site and surroundings, and may include “no-disturbance” zones (1 point).
• Use non-toxic pest control methods (Each worth ½ point):
  1.  Keep all wood 12” above soil.
  2. Seal external cracks and joints with caulking and install pest-proof screening.
  3.  Include no wood-to-concrete connections, or separate connections with dividers.
  4. Ensure mature plants are 24” away from home and logs or timbers.
  5.  Treat wood-based material with borate product to 3’ above foundation.
  6. Provide a detailed cut list of log or timber package order (1 point).
• Reduce your construction waste and cuttings using one of the following formulas (Up to 3 points):
  1. Pounds waste per square foot.
  2. Cubic yards waste per 1,000 square feet.
  3. Percentage of waste diverted.
• Insure an adequate lateral grove in log walls adjacent to or dividing the garage from the home and seal all cracks. Also insulate and gasket ALL laterals. This is to provide adequate garage pollutant protection, increase insulation values and reduce envelope air leakage (potentially 5 points total).
• Enhance public awareness. This can be through your web site by providing a list of the features and benefits of LEED homes as well as access to your durability plan. You can also encourage the home owner to hold an open house and display LEED signage on the exterior of the home. You may also want to consider pursuing media outlets to publish an article on the project.

The LEED for Homes program does require in-depth documentation. If the project claims a point in any category, it must have the paperwork to prove it. Assembling the necessary documentation is an ongoing effort and cannot be postponed until the end. It may seem daunting at first, but it quickly becomes routine. As a log home builder, be sure to get involved directly, keep a trail of compiled evidence, and maintain photo records. It is important to be aware of how your actions fit within the overall strategy. Also be sure to record and document any staff time and cost associated with LEED efforts.

The LEED for Homes system is but one of a few emerging standards that building professionals will become accredited in. Some of the others include Built Green and Energy Star. Additionally, there are more than 70 highly regarded local or regional green building programs. If you want to take the next step toward LEED Certification we suggest you go to www.usgbc.org/LEED/homes and familiarize yourself with the rating system.

Builders who wish to register a project should connect with a LEED for Homes provider or LEED Accredited Professional (LEED AP). You will also need to sit down with the client, the architect or designer, general contractor and LEED AP to determine your green goals and which credits are aligned with your project. Your goals should include which level of certification you want to achieve and which points you will pursue in order to meet the credits necessary for the desired level of certification. A LEED for Homes Provider or LEED AP is an integral part of your team as they will be responsible for overseeing performance testing and compliance with the system. They will also oversee the project and ensure it is built according to the stated goal.

We just received these progress pictures from our client on Big Bar Lake, Lillooet, BC. It is a very unique little timber frame. Please contact us for additional details on this plan.

Streamline Design Ltd. is pleased to announce we have been awarded the International Log Builders Association contract to produce the 3D diagrams for the new 'Effective Practices and Methods' book. Streamline will be modeling and illustrating approx. 40 details. Some of these details will be re-drawn from the current "Standards" while the majority will be new.

This is a very exciting opportunity as it allows us to be a part of the future of our industry. It also ensures we are well versed in the new Standards and Effective practices.

We thank the ILBA for their continued efforts to push the industry forward.

Streamline Design was pleased to have contribute to The Illustrated Guide To Log Home Construction From Finished Shell to Finished Home By Dalibor Houdek. The book was published by FPinnovations, the world's largest private, not-for-profit forest research institute. FPinnovations works towards optimizing the forest sector value chain. It capitalizes on Canada's fiber attributes and it develops new products and market opportunities within a framework of environmental sustainability.

We recently received updated photos of our Pagosa Springs, CO. project. We are excited for its completion, slated for the end of November. Please stay tuned for the finished photographs.

We recently received updated photos of our pinnacle project in Sun Peaks, BC. We are excited for its completion, slated for the end of October. Please stay tuned for the finished photographs. Floor plans for this design can be viewed here

Passive solar - a term referring to those technologies that can be employed to convert natural sunlight into usable heat, to cause air-movement for ventilation or cooling, or to store the heat for future use, without the use of electrical or mechanical equipment.

A "passive" solar house provides cooling and heating to keep the home comfortable without the use of mechanical equipment. This style of construction results in homes that respond to the environment.

For passive heating and cooling, the plan of the house, careful site selection and planning, construction materials, building features and other aspects of the home are designed to collect, store and distribute the sun's heat in winter; and to block the sun's rays in summer. Passive solar houses can be built in any architectural style and in any part of the country.

The following techniques use passive solar strategies to provide heat:

Direct Gain is radiant heat resulting from sunlight admitted directly to the living spaces through south-facing windows, which warms the interior surfaces (walls, furniture, floors, etc.). For direct gain, the south-facing window area must be sized for the climate, the type of window used and the amount of thermal mass in the home.

Graphic courtesy of North Carolina Solar Center.

Indirect Gain  In a design that employs indirect gain, an attached sunspace or Trombe wall collects heat from the sun before transferring it to other spaces within the home. The air heated in a sunspace circulates naturally or with the aid of fans to other rooms.

Thermal Mass is any material in the home that absorbs and stores heat. Concrete, brick, tile and other masonry materials are the most common choices for thermal mass in a passive solar home, but let’s not forget logs and heavy timbers. These materials absorb and release heat slowly and are easily and inexpensively integrated into the house design. They are most effective when dark colored and located in direct sunlight. The addition of thermal mass allows saved solar energy to heat the house at night or on cloudy days. The combination increases the performance and energy-saving characteristics of the home, generally for only a modest cost increase.

The following techniques use passive solar strategies to provide cooling:

Passive solar cooling can reduce or even eliminate the need for air conditioning in homes. At its simplest, passive cooling includes overhangs for south-facing windows, few windows on the west, shade trees, thermal mass and cross ventilation. Some of the same strategies that help to heat a home in the winter also cool it in the summer. For example, with a well-designed overhang, the south-facing windows that admit the low-angled rays of the winter sun are shaded from the high-angled summer sun. Thermal mass, which stores heat in the winter to release in the evening, works in reverse in the summer. The mass cools down in the evening and retains that coolness the next day, moderating the effects of high daytime temperatures.

On September 16th, Streamline Enterprises Ltd. and the Environmental Youth Alliance, installed a Gro2, edible living wall at the Lux apartments. The Lux is a transitional housing project on the Vancouver East side containing 92 subsidized studio apartments. To the best of our knowledge this is the first edible living wall in Canada. This 84 square foot wall contains Kale, Collards, Radish, Peas, Swiss Chard, 4 types of lettuce, sorrel, thyme, mint, oregano, rosemary, peppers, and tomatoes. This project will be maintained and harvested by the residence and demonstrate an innovative way to get fresh, affordable produce in the middle of downtown.

As we enter into our busy fall season, we are pleased to announce the launch of our new website! Please feel free to browse our new layout, featuring an updated design portfolio, many new project photos, our brand new Streamline Blog, and tons of resources and information about our design and consulting services.

As the summer winds down, it is important to think ahead to the Spring 2011 construction season. Now is the time to focus on finalizing your floor plans and start thinking through the construction details to help ensure your project comes in under budget, on time and with no surprises.

Check back soon for more entries with updates on our current projects, as well as informative articles on a wide range of topics!

We have also added 7 new log and timber frame designs to our portfolio. Check them out below!

Full Scribe:

Chehova Restaurant

Moose Jaw (Award winner!)

Timber Frame:

Chelwood Cabin

Wild Cherry

St. Olaf

Post & Beam:

The Jefferson (Runner-up!)

Roberts Creek (Runner-up!)